BUTTERI: ITALIAN COWBOYS

The term "buttero" comes from the Ancient Greek term "botér", meaning "herdsman", a.k.a. cowboy. But the butteri in the land of Maremma are the original cowboys, a tradition that goes way back in time. The herds of cattle used to graze freely (and still do in the Tolfa mountains) and so had to be rounded up for branding ("merca") and calving ("figliatura"). Branding consisted of three marks: one to indicate the year, another to indicate the herd and the last for the family's coat-of-arms.

The horses are the "Maremmano" workhorse, now a rare breed. You can still find wild Maremanno horses on the Tolfa mountains. The cowboys take great care of their horses, once broken in, using tiny spurs on their boots and a special bit that won't hurt the horses' teeth.

The "scarfardo" and "bardella" saddles are built with a frame of solid wood and are real masterpieces.

The butteri always carry an "uncino": a thin wooden stick with a handy hook on the end. The rest of their outfit is extremely elegant (this is Italy, don't forget!): white shirts, tight-fitting jackets and vests, in canvas or linen in the Summer and velvet or moleskin in the Winter. Plus their distinctive white canvas or leather hats.

Nowadays, you'll find the butteri at various local events or wandering down the lanes on a late Summer evening. Four sure dates: Festa della Merca in Tarquinia (25th April); Festa della Merca in Monte Romano (May 1st); Palio del Buttero in Pescia Romana (1st weekend in August); Mostra Nazionale del Cavallo Maremmano, alternating between Canino (2007) and Grosseto (2006).

The Vulci Park occasionally organises days with the butteri (www.vulci.org).

The many "butteri" associations in our area also organise trips for those who already feel quite at home in the saddle...