 |
Even way back when in the
14th Century, the Maremma marshes and woods
were home to bandits preying on the pilgrims
to and from Rome. In fact, Dante places
a certain Rinieri da Corneto (modern-day
Tarquinia) in the circle of violent criminals
(bandits, thieves and predators) in his
Divina Commedia (Hell XII, 136-8):
"...e per l'eternità spreme
le lagrime, che fa sgorgare con il supplizio
del sangue bollente, a Rinieri da Corneto,
a Rinieri dei Pazzi, che resero così
pericolose le strade. "
"...and for eternity (God) forces
tears, by means of the river of boiling
blood, from Rinier da Corneto and Rinier
Pazzo, highwaymen who made the roads so
dangerous."
|
|
Dante also used the area
as his model for the forest of the suicides
(Hell XIII, 1015 et seq.), thanks to its
wild landscape, with thick woods and briars,
the kingdom of the wild boar:
" Non fronda verde, ma di color fosco;non
rami schietti, ma nodosi e 'nvolti;non pomi
v'eran, ma stecchi con tòsco. Non
han si aspri sterpi nè si folti quelle
fiere selvagge che in odio hanno tra Cecina
e Corneto i luoghi colti".
"Foliage that's not green, but murky;
branches that aren't smooth, but gnarled
and tangled; no apple trees, but poisonous
thorns. Such snarled, impenetrable thickets
are the lair of the savage wild beasts that
scorn the open fields between Cecina and
Corneto."
It was only towards the end of the 19th
Century that the Maremma was finally freed
of the Brigands. Today there's a series of nature trails celebrating these "infamous" individuals: the Sentiero
dei Briganti.
One of the most famous
was Domenico Tiburzi, born in Cellere on
the 28th of May 1836 (the subject of a film
by Paolo Benvenuti).
Called "the King of Lamone" (the
wild woods, now the Lamone nature reserve
between the towns of Ischia and Farnese
near the Tuscan border), he plagued the
pilgrims heading for Rome in the period
before the Unification of Italy. A sort
of Robin Hood (according to local legend),
he started his criminal career when the
regional states abolished the peasants'
rights to hunt and cut wood in the forests,
fish in the rivers and garner the crops
left in the fields after the main harvest.
Thousands of peasants suddenly found themselves
"outlaws" and starving.
Tiburzi committed his first "crime"
at the age of 15, when he stole a fistful
of hay from the Marchese Guglielmi to feed
his father's starving donkey! His first
murder was in 1867 when he killed a bailiff
who'd fined him twenty Lire (a lot of money
in those days) because Tiburzi's herd of
cattle crossed over onto the land of the
Guglielmi family.
At that point he became a proper outlaw,
often donating the spoils to the poor. He
had a definite idea of justice: "I,
Domenico Tiburzi, fight for justice, even
when this means going against the law".
In fact, Tiburzi wasn't particularly cruel
or bloodthirsty. He was, however, an excellent
organiser: his band was run like a business.
He acted as President, the Managing Director
was a certain Domenico Biagini and there
was even a Board of Directors (three of
which were assassinated after betraying
the "company": Pastorini, Basili
and Bettinelli).
In 1872 he escaped from the jail in Corneto
(Saline di Tarquinia) together with his
companions. In the end he was liquidated
by some of the local nobles (for whom he
had often acted as a "bravo" -
hired thug). The night of the 23rd of October
1896, he was ambushed by the Carabinieri
in a house near Capalbio. During the shoot-out,
Tiburzi was shot in the leg. What happened
next isn't clear: was he murdered or did
he commit suicide?
A great mystery surrounds his body: more
than a century later his tomb still hasn't
been found. The most accredited version
goes that the parish priest of Capalbio
refused to bury him, but the local community
demanded that their "hero" be
buried. A compromise was reached: the body
of Domenico Tiburzi should be buried under
the cemetery gate, his legs inside, his
head and chest (and thus his soul) outside,
without a tombstone. In later years the
cemetery was expanded and all traces of
the original gate were lost to memory.
Here's Tiburzi's version of the 10 commandments
(according to Piero Bargellini, writer,
major of Florence in 1966 and senator):
I am Tiburzi, the maremmano bandit.
The Maremma shalt not have no other bandits
before me.
Thou shalt not take the name of Tiburzi
in vain.
Honour the lords of this land.
Help the poor.
Thou shalt not kill.
Thou shalt not steal.
Thou shalt not see.
Thou shalt not speak.
Thou shalt not bear witness, neither to
the Carabinieri in Capalbio nor the Delegate
of Orbetello.
Today there's a series of trails from Vulci
to Lake Bolsena (and of course, the woods
of Lamone) called the "Sentiero
dei Briganti". Suitable for on
foot, on horseback, by bike. Signs along
the way describe the various episodes and
stories, plus the local nature and sites
of cultural interest.
|